Cambodia: From gloom to boom?

March 21, 2012
Vientiane, Vientiane Prefecture, Laos.

Cambodia has had it rough in recent history. From being dragged into the Vietnam conflict, to the subsequent civil war and the emergence of one of the bloodiest regimes in modern history – the Khmer Rouge.

During the Vietnam war the US waged a shadow war in Cambodia against the North Vietnamese forces who used the country’s territory as a supply route. The US Air Force data indicates that from 1965 to 1973 the United States dropped almost 2.8 million tons of ordnance on the country. To put things into perspective, the Allies dropped just over 2 million tons of bombs during all of World War II, including the bombs of Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Cambodia may well be the most bombed country in history.

As if that wouldn’t be enough by itself, the war developments have brought the Khmer Rouge revolutionary forces in power. During their 4 year rule, from 1975 to 1979, an estimated 2 million people – about a third of the population – died from executions, starvation, overwork and disease.

In their utopian revolutionary zeal the Khmer Rouge immediately evacuated the cities and sent the entire population on forced rural work projects. They attempted to rebuild the country’s agriculture on the model of the 11th century, discarded Western medicine, and destroyed temples, libraries, and anything considered Western. You were considered an intellectual threat if you spoke a foreign language or wore glasses.

The unrest in the country lasted for almost another 20 years after the fall of the brutal regime. But the economy hasn’t looked back since then. From 2001-2010 Cambodia was growing 7.7% on average, making it one of the world’s top ten countries with the highest annual average GDP growth.

Despite that the government depends on foreign aid for almost half of its budget. That is soon about to change though, as Cambodia becomes an oil producer. A discovery offshore in the Gulf of Thailand in 2005 estimated Cambodia’s oil resources at 400m barrels, enough to earn about $1.7 billion a year, more than the government’s budget.

As the oil production will get online in late 2012 or early 2013, the immediate impact will be felt in the city of Sihanoukville, Cambodia’s main port. The town with a population of 200.000 people already attracts a significant number of foreigners, some who are drawn to visit it because of its long sandy beaches and beautiful offshore islands, others have moved there and established a business.

The expat community is already pretty sizable for such a small town. Just walking on the street you can see Indian, Italian and German restaurants (called “The Schnitzel”), bungalows and other accommodation options owned by Slovenians, Australians and the British.

One British who has been living there for a while is selling his bar/restaurant. He was running it for 5 years and he’s moving up north with his Cambodian wife and their family. To give you an indication of prices and costs to run such an establishment in Sihanoukville: the place is about 160 m² big and he’s selling it for a negotiable price of $40.000.

Since Cambodia is continuously ranked as one of the most corrupt countries in the world I was wondering how much of a hassle is to run a bar/restaurant business in Cambodia in that regard.

Everything is very straightforward according to his account: tax is levied by an inspector who arrives at the property and counts the number of tables an establishment has. For the property in question that amounts to a $10 tax a month. Besides that there’s an operating/business licence that costs $50 a year.

Cambodia is about to jump from the ranks of one of the poorest countries in the world. Combine that with an ever growing tourist appeal and a strong consumer culture in Cambodia (iPhones and SUVs abound), and it is evident that there are numerous opportunities to profit from Cambodia’s boom. And the city is Sihanoukville is  especially poised to benefit from the fresh money when the oil starts flowing.

The country is especially appealing for intrepid entrepreneurial young people who are willing to get their feet wet abroad. With a young, English-speaking population and very low labor costs, the barriers to entry into business are much lower then right about anywhere else in the world.

Categories: Culture and Society, Opportunities | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

A toast to freedom

March 13, 2012
Hanoi, Hanoi, Vietnam.
 

Most people are talkers, not doers. Myself included. We all dream big, especially when we’re young and have the whole life ahead of us. It’d be awesome if I knew how to play a guitar. I don’t, despite putting it on my “to-do in life” list, and having a brother who knows how to play a guitar and has one. So for me to accomplish that it wouldn’t cost me anything, and I’d have somebody there to help me.

But talking, dreaming and wishing is one thing, taking action, getting out of your comfort zone, failing, achieving – that’s in a completely different league. Although no success is brought about without prior experience of failure, and although we had to fall countless times before we learned how to walk, failure and unorthodoxy are still stigmatized. Especially in a cultural environment where I’m coming from.

But if you DO want to live a meaningful life, one that you’ll own and not follow a set of prescriptions, if you want to be successful in your pursuit of happiness and not realize in your mid-40s that what you’ve been doing so far is making you miserable, you need to break free from the established social norms and get out of the rut that is chaining most people.

You start this by having a healthy dose of scepticism towards what you’re told. Including what I’m saying here. Go, see and try things for yourself. First and foremost this should hold true for our political and economic foundations and the roles we are expected to perform within our society.

Societies and countries across the world are overwhelmingly based on a notion of nationality and we are expected to profess exclusive allegiance towards our nation and country. But modern nation states are a relatively recent phenomenon. And they don’t make much sense either – they’re mostly there for those in power to easily consolidate their authority.

Sure, languages and cultures matter, and they are different, but consider how modern official languages developed – from myriad different dialects, composed together in order to facilitate authority over a certain territory. Just take a look at modern France as an example. According to the French constitution there are no minorities within its borders – no Basques, no Bretons, no Catalans.

Bottom line is, I’d rather stick my neck out for somebody I share the same values and outlook with, then for someone I happen to share a passport with.

As for the dire straits the Western economies find themselves in, there’s no need to emphasize that, you know it all too well. And this situation or the time we live in really aren’t anything exceptional. It’s just a natural progression, an evolution as the world’s natural and societal forces ebb and flow.

The West has enjoyed a good run, spanning over a few centuries, where it occupied a leading role in the world economy, and thus politics and military power as well. But if you take things into perspective and look at a longer time-span of history, the last few centuries of Western domination are nothing but an anomaly. China and India, the regions that have been primary economic and innovative forces through large parts of history, are again coming to the fore.

There is no sense in resisting or fighting major trends and forces that are occurring in our natural and social environment. Using our energy, capacity and resources to counter these trends and forces is futile and destined to failure. A more sensible and prudent course of action is to recognize these trends and align your life path accordingly.

As legendary investor Jim Rogers said: “If you were smart in 1807 you moved to London, if you were smart in 1907 you moved to New York City, and if you are smart in 2007 you move to Asia.” Adding to the list of regions that are well placed to prosper in the coming decades are most parts of Latin America and certain parts of Africa. This means that there are huge swats of the globe that offer far more opportunities then North America, Europe and Japan, especially for young people.

Having realized all that a few years ago, and being passionate about travelling and developments around the world already before that, I was able to break free from the predetermined paths so many of my peers are taking.

What freedom means to me is being independent as much as I can from any form of coercion and conformity that are mostly embodied in modern states, and being able to live a life for which I’m the one writing the screenplay. You can do that only if you look past your doorstep, step out into the world and look around yourself where the pastures are greener.

I have never experienced such level of freedom as I am experiencing right now. It’s incredibly exhilarating and addictive.

To freedom. Ubi bene ibi patria.

Categories: Philosophy | 13 Comments

Serendipity

February 29, 2012
Hội An, Quang Nam, Vietnam.
 

I went to the other side of the lake to take photos of the city and its majestic palace being gently immersed into the warm light as the sun was setting. I had planned this the day before as I was watching the sun set from my hotel’s rooftop over dinner. It is an incredibly scenic place: old houses clinging to the lake’s shore, narrow alleyways winding up and down, the boats that bob on the water, and all that surrounded by green mountains rising on all sides, creating a natural protective ring-fence.

To take photos of the sunset over the lake and mountains I went up to the rooftop of a hotel next door. As I walked pass the last table, towards the corner where the view was the best, a woman sitting alone said to me: “You missed it,” referring to the sunset. I said that’s ok, the light is still beautiful.

I stood there, taking photos for a few minutes, and eavesdropped on the conversation she was having on her phone. She was talking in English, but I caught on that sexy French accent immediately. From what I vaguely heard I again thought to myself: “Dammit, another girl traveling with her boyfriend.”

I finished what I came there for and briefly mentioned that it was worth it anyway. I asked if I can sit down and she gladly approved, saying that she’s been traveling alone as well and could use some company.

We enjoyed the conversation of two strangers and each other’s company in a setting that could hardly be more perfect for an encounter like this – on a rooftop, in blue light just after sunset, watching as the lights around and on the lake started to illuminate Udaipur, also known as “the most romantic city in India”.

After a while we continued the conversation over dinner one floor below. We shared each other’s stories, life experiences and how we got to where we were. There was a mutual feeling of regret when she said she was leaving the town on a 6 am bus next morning. We both felt we should get to know each other more.

I walked her to her room and hesitantly said goodbye, not knowing if I would see her again.

The next day I decided that there’s nothing holding me back really, that I’m completely free to do whatever I want, so I bought the bus ticket for Jodhpur for next morning.

We made our rendezvous there and did our curiosity justice.

Yes, serendipity is one of the best things about traveling. It was great meeting you, Elodie. We will always have Udaipur. And Jodhpur. And Bangkok.

Photos from Udaipur & Jodhpur.

Categories: Encounters | Tags: , , , | 3 Comments

Who doesn’t like hill stations?

February 19, 2012
Banlung, Ratanakiri, Cambodia.

We wouldn’t even go to Shimla if a Dutch girl we met in Lahore, Pakistan, wouldn’t recommended the place to us. It’s in Himachal Pradesh, a state in northern India whose name literally means In the lap of the Himalayas.

Since we were in India in January and we already experienced northern high-altitude Pakistan in December, we thought it would be unwise to venture into the Himalayas at that time.

But we heard great things about it, and since we were already really close, we decided to take a short bus ride up to the mountains from Chandigarh. We were glad we took the journey since the scenery around us was stunning.

Although we were at a similar altitude than when we were in the Karakoram mountains in Pakistan – Shimla lies at an average elevation of 2,205 meters – the environment couldn’t be more different. In contrast to rocky, barren, dusty and grey surroundings of the Karakoram, the landscape around Shimla is rich in green lush pine forests.

Precisely because of its inviting surroundings Shimla started to develop as a summer retreat (hill station) for the British civil servants, escaping the stifling heat of India’s lowlands. It became so popular that since 1864 it was even declared the summer capital of the British Raj.

For this reason Shimla is full of architectural gems, in the form of old colonial mansions and lodges, and administrative buildings.

It remains a popular spot for India’s well-off who either vacation there, or have a summer retreat of their own in the area. It’s different from most other cities in India mostly because it’s very clean – littering, spitting and such are punishable by fines – and because there are no crazy rickshaws.

The town has a very interesting and appealing geography. The center of town is set on a ridge overlooking green rolling mountains as far as the eye can see. Right off the ridge, on both sides, steep slopes come descending down fast, which makes for a fascinating architectural sight on the southern slope where the commercial center of Shimla is located.

Now about that inappropriate time to visit: Shimla was cold, for sure, but unlike in Pakistan we were fortunate enough to at least experience snowfall here, which was a beautiful experience, as all the locals were genuinely excited to witness the first snow of the year.

Everybody was taking photos, posing with the snowy backdrop behind them, children were playing in the snow and there was a general jovial atmosphere. The only things that was missing to remind us a little bit of home and make us warm was mulled wine.

We arrived to Shimla by bus. We decided to depart from the town by rails. The Shimla-Kalka narrow gauge railway is listed in the Guinness Book of Records for the steepest rise (or descent) in altitude in a distance of 96 km, from 656 m at Kalka to 2,076 m at Shimla railway station. The line has 864 bridges and 102 tunnels, making for a very scenic ride.

Unfortunately our ride wasn’t so pleasant because we couldn’t book a seat a day before, so we endured the slow descent in a crowded carriage, making our experience a little less enjoying. Nevertheless, Shimla is a wonderful and beautiful oasis among India’s chaos.

Categories: Nature and Environment, Transport | Tags: , , , | 2 Comments

As time goes by

February 7, 2012
Bangkok, Bangkok, Thailand.

Yes, I know, long time has gone by since our last post. Many things have happened, many things have been seen and many kilometers have been traveled since then.

The last time you heard from us we were in New Delhi, India. Shortly after that Vasja decided that his animosity towards India is simply too great. Since we’ve established already at the beginning that our journey will be completely flexible, he took a flight to Bangkok and ended his Indian sojourn earlier then planned.

I stayed a bit longer, explored India a bit further, and finally boarded the flight to Bangkok in the great city of Mumbai. The ticket for which I booked just 10 hours before take off.

But what did we do before that? The crossing from Pakistan into India was very smooth. Looks like that Pakistan, for the sake of prestige, tries to keep its facilities on the border with India up to the highest standard. Having experienced another Pakistani border crossing at Taftan from Iran, we were of course very surprised at the dichotomy.

There isn’t much to do and see in Amritsar, the first city on the Indian side of the border, if it weren’t for the Golden Temple. The holiest site of the Sikh religion is said to be covered according to various accounts anywhere from 100 kg to 1600 kg of gold. Whatever the actual number is, it’s huge.

The temple sure is a stunning site by itself. But what makes a visit there remarkable are other fellow visitors/worshipers, the incredibly friendly and smiling Sikh people. The men with their turbans and beards – since they are not allowed to cut their hair – and the women in their impossibly colorful clothes, make the transition into India from Pakistan very pleasant. The atmosphere is immediately more relaxed, the women smile at you and gone is the sense of incredible conformity we got in Pakistan where almost everybody, it seemed, was wearing shalwar kameez.

In line with the Sikh religion, everybody is welcome at a gurdawara – Sikh temple. The Golden Temple is therefore also open to all people, regardless of their creed, religion, color or sex. There are just a few rules to maintain the purity of the sacred site: everybody, men and women, should cover their hair; shoes are to be left outside and the feet washed in a small pool of water at the entrances.

The site itself is constantly being kept clean and washed. But as said, the people are the ones who ensure that visiting the Golden Temple is an unforgettable experience. Smiling, always ready to pose for a photo, and very welcoming. We received numerous requests from people who wanted to have a photo taken with us. Together with the unique setting, this is what makes a visit to Amritsar one of India’s highlights.

One of the other two reasons why people visit Amritsar is the Jallianwala Bagh garden memorial, where in 1919 the British killed around 1000 people in what is known as the Jallianwala Bagh massacre.

The other is to see the famous Wagah border closing ceremony, where Indian and Pakistani border officers try to outstomp, outmarch and outshout each other in what is a burlesque performance in an electrifying atmosphere, as the crowds on both sides are pumped up with nationalist/patriotic emotions.

Check out the rest of the photos from Amritsar here.

Categories: Culture and Society | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

Wrapping up reporting from Pakistan with some more videos

January 10, 2012
New Delhi, Delhi, India.

 

After the latest post about the dire situation Pakistan finds itself in, we’re finishing our reporting from the country with a more upbeat tone. We’ve been quite prolific when it comes to video reporting in Pakistan, from our adventures in Karachi, through all sorts of issues we went through while on our way to and from the beautiful Hunza valley.

We have one more video for you from our way back from Hunza. As we already mentioned in our first post from Pakistan, there are numerous checkpoints in various parts of the country where foreigners have to register as part of the country’s security procedures.

Usually you enter in a small and dark hut, where a few police officers or other security personnel are crammed in and register your passport, visa and itinerary details in a paper log. In this video you can see how this looks like, although this was one of the rare occasions where the officer filled the registration logs for us.

We spent ten days altogether in Lahore, a week before going to Hunza, when we also both got sick and went to the hospital to get some antibiotics for our stomach problems, and a few days of relaxing after an exhausting way back from the north.

We enjoyed our stay at a cosy hostel with a laid back atmosphere, free wi-fi, washing machine, kitchen and a bed for 200 rupees – about 1.70 euros – per night. The owner Malik sometimes invites local musicians to play at the hostel’s small terrace. We were lucky to see one of these jam sessions. We had one of the many frequent, and annoying, power cuts during that time, so the only source of light was the little fire on the terrace, thus the poor visibility.

As we already confessed in Iran, we are pretty bad in visiting the official “sights” in places we go to. That was the case also in Lahore, mainly because we were both sick during our first stay there.

Nevertheless, we did manage to visit two of the most imposing architectural structures in Lahore, the Lahore fort and the Badshahi mosque. And they were both definitely worth it. This is the video we took while sitting in a chilly roof-top restaurant overlooking the mosque. A disclaimer beforehand: do not get offended, we mock all religions equally and without discrimination.

One of the things that make Malik and his hostel in Lahore so popular with travelers is that he and his crew organize free visits to the local religious music performances. Qawwali is a Sufi devotional music popular across South Asia. Sufis (another name is Dervish) are adherents to the mystical or esoteric dimension of Islam.

We went to one qawwali performance at a shrine in the old town and the experience was really something special. The music was great and full of tempo and passion.

The man of the show was a local religious leader (supposedly a descendant of the prophet Mohammed, although we were told this as a passing reference and we surely wouldn’t put our money on it; if someone is more accurately informed, please let us know in the comments below). A wealthy man, as we were told, he was certainly enjoying enormous attention and devotion by the other men present.

The money you see being thrown around wasn’t meant for the musicians, as we first thought, but for the guest of honor. He keeps the money for himself. I love religion, it enlightens, yet is always short of cash.

Returning back to Malik’s, we were privileged to ride on a true rarity in this part of the world – a sound system equipped rickshaw. Naturally we took full advantage of the situation.

Take a look at the rest of the photos from the beautiful Hunza valley. And don’t forget to check out the photos from Lahore, featuring the Lahore fort, Badshahi mosque and photos from the qawwali evening, among others.

Categories: Bureaucracy and Logistics, Culture and Society, Music | Tags: , , , , , | 7 Comments

With friends like these

January 8, 2012
New Delhi, Delhi, India.
 
 

177 million. That’s how many people live in Pakistan. After spending a month there, it seems that instead of benefitting from the demographic dividend, like some of its Asian peers, the bulging population is a huge strain to the country’s natural resources, infrastructure, environment, economic development and public policy.

Despite its vast size, its geography, combined with the political situation, is incredibly claustrophobic. The Arabian Sea on the south, sparsely populated Baluchistan with a rugged, dry and extreme climate to the west, the Hindu Kush and Karakoram mountain ranges, with some of the highest peaks in the world, to the north, and the Indus river plain, with the Thar desert, on the east. The majority of the population lives along the fertile plains of the Indus river and its tributaries.

Combine that with the political situation in the region. Vilified Iran as your western neighbor, turbulent and unstable Afghanistan along the Durand Line, China across the Karakoram, and finally, an arch-enemy India, together with the disputed Kashmir region, at your eastern border.

A perfect recipe to develop a feeling of being somewhat pushed into a corner. And the country’s elites have used these circumstances ever since the partition of British India in 1947 to maintain the status quo.

The military establishment hasn’t been able to keep it’s hands off the political power struggle in the country and has had a dominant role, either through direct military rule or strong influence over the civilian governments. Through various businesses and conglomerates it has a dominant stake in the country’s economy as well. It is a common joke that usually every country has an army, but in the case of Pakistan the army has a country.

The other side of the unfortunate coin that has befallen on Pakistan is that, apart from the military, it’s economy, and subsequently politics, is controlled by a small number of wealthy landowning families, whose interest is to maintain their privileged positions and therefore largely the status quo. This is reflected in all sorts of poor indicators of human and economic development that exhibit where the country’s elite’s priorities are. One of the most telling indicators for example is that in 2011 only 57.7% of adult Pakistanis were literate.

Corruption and graft are widespread. Asif Ali Zardari, the current president of Pakistan and widower of the assassinated two-times prime minister Benazir Bhutto, has been dubbed “Mr. 10 percent” because of his alleged role in “facilitating” government deals during the premierships of his wife. Today he is supposedly the second richest man in Pakistan, with an alleged wealth of $1.8 billion and estates in England, Normandy, Manhattan and Dubai.

The military, on the other hand, has received more then $11 billion since 2001 from the United States government as an important ally in the global war on terror. A question of allegiance therefore occurs: is the Pakistani military, together with it’s government, responsible to its people, or does it serve the highest bidder that shows up with the sweetest deal?

All of the described factors makes me think that under the current circumstances the Pakistani people are trapped in a deeply claustrophobic political, social and economic environment that doesn’t look to get better anytime soon.

Categories: Culture and Society | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

Going to and from Hunza is not easy

December 30, 2011
Lahore, Punjab, Pakistan.

 

We’ve been lacking the inspiration to write anything lately, so we rather made a few more videos.

The first one is from when we got stopped by two police officers while driving into Islamabad with a Canadian friend in his car. They wanted to convince us it is illegal to drive in Pakistan without a Pakistani registration, which is, of course not true. After some talking they let us go. But only after the Canadian friend slipped a couple of rupees into the officer’s hand.

After Islamabad, we decided to visit the beautiful and astonishing Hunza valley in the north of Pakistan. The Karakoram highway linking Pakistan to China runs along it. These are some bits from driving up there.

On returning to Lahore from the Hunza valley, we ran into a roadblock. This is what was going on.

Categories: Culture and Society, Transport | Tags: , , | 5 Comments

Experiences from Karachi in video footage

December 16, 2011
Lahore, Punjab, Pakistan.

 

We spent a week altogether in Karachi, arriving there after an arduous 27-hour train ride from Quetta. A very scenic journey indeed, but one not recommended in an economy class, littered with people and garbage, and where it gets incredibly cold during the night, because some of the windows don’t close fully. Our situation was aggravated by the fact that all sleeper berths were already reserved, so we ended up on the uncomfortable seats.

Karachi is a sprawling metropolis, vast in size and with an unknown quantity of people. They say the population is around 20 million. It is Pakistan’s largest city and main seaport, therefore attracting all sorts of people from all over the country. The Pakistanis say for Karachi: “If you can make it here, you can make it everywhere.”

Instead of describing with words what we did and experienced in Karachi, we present you some footage we took there. So without further ado:

The first video is about the events on the streets during the Shia muslim holiday of Ashura:

The second is going to a gun store and enquiring about the prices and permits:

Getting a haircut and shaving:

A parody of Slavoj Žižek – but also very much a reality of Karachi:

Trying to get to Clifton beach, but ending up in an argument with the rickshaw driver (partly in English and Slovene):

Karachi Grand Prix (in Slovene):

P.S. As usual, you can see the photos from the train ride and from Karachi in our gallery.

Categories: Culture and Society, Sports and Adventure | Tags: , , , | 11 Comments

Taftan isn’t at the end of the world, but it’s close

December 12, 2011
Karachi, Sindh, Pakistan.

 

We left Iran after 29 days and entered Pakistan at the only international border crossing, close to the triple border point of Iran, Afghanistan and Pakistan.

Arriving in Zahedan, the capital of Iran’s near-lawless region of Sistan va Baluchestan, where drug smugglers and separatist Balochis are causing trouble to the government in Tehran, at 5 am, we headed straight to the bus terminal, where we waited for the sunrise and then soon found a minibus going to the border. It was a bit more then an hour’s drive, during which time we went through multiple police and military checkpoints in this volatile region.

Exiting Iran was smooth enough, once the uniformed officers noticed that we don’t exactly fit into the rest of the crowd and ushered us through the line. We got seated into the waiting area and for some reason it took them a long time to stamp our passports.

The young officer handling them looked genuinely confused and didn’t know what to do. He was checking what I guess where all sorts of records and registers, but he hesitated before giving us the exit stamp. Looking around for a senior officer in charge, but not finding him, he finally asked us: “Which country?” “Slovenia, it says on the passports,” we replied.

Once you get to the Pakistani territory the tarmac road ends and dusty gravel begins. The difference between the two country’s checkpoints could hardly be more profound. The first passport control was done by a soldier while we walked through the border gate. The second was in a small, poorly lit and ascetic hut, where we received our entry stamps and got photographed.

Following was another control in a small room of a separate building, which could pose as the main office for the officer in-charge, I guess. The fourth control was the most surreal. A friendly officer seated us on plastic chairs under the hot December sun, next to his sandbag fortification, where we had to transcribe our passport and visa details into a paper notebook.

After that we got taken to Taftan’s police station. Another shock awaited us there. The roof of the building was full of old and damaged cars. Once inside the courtyard, there was a group of about 20 men on our right side, staying still and quiet like they were being on a leash, and whipped if they disobeyed. In front of us were cells of a local prison. Hands and heads were hanging through the bars, curiously observing the rare species of a Western traveller.

Another passport control was on the hands for us, at the end of which we were told we would be accompanied by an armed guard on our bus to Quetta. We followed the member of the paramilitary Baluchistan Levies police force, who didn’t really instill much safety comfort, but who nonetheless had a shotgun over his shoulder, to his humble, rudiment one-room dwelling that he shared with another man.

After a small but tasty meal the four of us shared from a common pan, sitting cross-legged on the floor, we were driven to the “center” of town. Waiting for our bus to depart, we were as much of an attraction to the local population, as everything we were looking at was to us. Taftan has a feel like it doesn’t belong to this world, existing detached from everything else in one of the most inhospitable environments on Earth.

The uncomfortable 14-hour ride to the regional capital Quetta, on sticky PVC-covered seats, took us through the desert rocky landscape of Baluchistan. Vasja said it best when he described the road conditions on our way: “There aren’t holes in the road, there’s some road between the holes.”

Baluchistan being a volatile region with a low-level insurgency by the local armed groups, we went through multiple checkpoints along the way. At least five times Vasja and me had to leave the bus at these checkpoints to write again our personal and itinerary details into paper notebooks, confirming with our signature that we were last reported there safely.

P.S. More photos from that day, as well as many others, can be found in our gallery.

Categories: Bureaucracy and Logistics, Transport | Tags: , , , | 1 Comment